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Kathryn Besser

Where to Eat, Where to Stay

Edinburgh

WHERE TO EAT

Image credit: Nathan Dumlao | unsplash

BUT FIRST, COFFEE…

Having not been to Edinburgh since 2013, I don’t have a handle on what’s open and serving the best coffee. However, (Conde Nast) Traveler has ideas!

https://www.cntraveler.com/gallery/best-coffee-shops-in-edinburgh

Image courtesy of Ondine Restaurant

RESTAURANTS

Ondine
George IV Bridge, Edinburgh
+44 (0) 131 226 1888
ondinerestaurant.co.uk

Based in the heart of Edinburgh’s historic Old Town, Ondine offers the finest seafood and shellfish from the East Coast of Scotland and beyond. The restaurant’s emphasis is on the fishermen who provide the freshest and most sustainable seafood celebrated with knowledgeable and satisfying cooking.

The Outsider
15/16 George IV Bridge, Edinburgh
+44 (0) 131 226 3131
theoutsiderrestaurant.com

A split-level restaurant featuring views of Edinburgh Castle, the somewhat trendy but always popular Outsider offers fresh, seasonal produce in mostly Mediterranean-style preparations along with an extensive wine and beverage list.

Restaurant Martin Wishart
54 The Shore, Edinburgh
+44 (0) 131 553 3557
martin-wishart.co.uk

Opened in 1999, Restaurant Martin Wishart is situated in Edinburgh’s historic Port of Leith. More than a decade later, the restaurant continues to bring the very best traditional and modern French cuisine to Edinburgh, using only the finest Scottish ingredients. Under Martin’s expert direction, the restaurant was awarded a Michelin star in 2001, an accolade that has been repeated every year since.

The Kitchin
78 Commercial Quay, Leith, Edinburgh
+44 (0) 131 555 1755
thekitchin.com

The Kitchin’s ‘From Nature to Plate’ philosophy represents Chef Tom Kitchin’s passion for the finest, freshest Scottish seasonal produce. The modern British cuisine, influenced by French cooking techniques, reflects Tom’s training under some of the world’s best chefs blended with his own Scottish heritage. Awarded a Michelin Star in 2007, The Kitchin continues to be one of best restaurants in Edinburgh and the U.K.

WHERE TO STAY

Image courtesy of Glasshouse Hotel

The Glasshouse

The Glasshouse
A five-star luxury hotel in Edinburgh’s city center
2 Greenside Place, Edinburgh
+44 (0) 131 525 8200
theglasshousehotel.co.uk

When the 160-year-old Lady Glenorchy Church was converted into The Glasshouse Hotel in 2003, Scotland exchanged one iconic piece of history for another. This 77-bedroom luxury boutique hotel is now considered one of the best places to stay in Edinburgh, with cozy-contemporary interiors, warm Scottish service and consistently spectacular views of the city center, Calton Hill or the hotel’s two-acre rooftop garden.

Image credit: Roger W Haworth, via Wikipedia

Dalhousie Castle

Dalhousie Castle is THE place to experience your Harry Potter fantasies. The current castle dates to the 17th century but  its roots stretch back to the 15th century. Not only is the castle haunted (we received a late night visit from the resident ghost in 2006), the onsite falconry allows supervised handling of hawks, owls and eagles (see photos below). Note: For our 2007 and 2013 visits, we stayed in the adjacent Lodge so as not to scare our children!

WHERE TO SHOP

Brora (Fine cashmere)
48 Frederick Street, Edinburgh
+44 (0) 131 220 6404
brora.co.uk

Elgin Cashmere
54 High Street, Edinburgh
+44 (0) 131 556 7165
elgincashmere.com

The Whisky Shop
28 Victoria Street, Edinburgh
+44 (0) 131 225 4666
whiskyshop.com

TRAVEL ARTICLE

Enlightened Edinburgh. GEV Magazine, Issue 19, February 2016

DALHOUSIE FALCONRY

SNAPSHOTS (2007)

TRYING HAGGIS

SNAPSHOTS (2013)

Copyright 2026 Kathryn Besser