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Kathryn Besser

Where to Eat, Where to Stay

Paris

BUT FIRST, COFFEE...

NEW FAVORITES FROM 2025

SAINT BARISTA
41 Rue Popincourt (11th ARR). Tiny place, awesome barista (he moonlights as a documentarian).

MOTORS COFFEE
7 Rue des Halles (1st ARR.) Excellent coffee, great vibe.

WHERE TO EAT

CAFES & RESTAURANTS

Le Comptoir de la Traboule
1 bis Rue Augereau (7th ARR.)
comptoirdelatraboule.fr

Shared plates, fusion-cuisine, great vibe but super tiny! Reservations recommended.

Miznon
22 Rue des Ecouffes (LE MARAIS)
AMAZING falafel in the Marais, better than As du Falafel which always has long lines.

La Fontaine de Mars
129, Rue Saint-Dominique (7th ARR.)
https://www.fontaine-de-mars.com/en/

Great spot for classic French dishes like Sole Meumiere. It’s been around for 30+ years but is still wonderfully authentic. The Obamas dined here in 2010!

Café Constant (changing name to Café Lignac) (7th ARR.)
139, Rue Saint-Dominique
http://www.cafe-constant.com/

We first dined here in 2004 and the food was amazing. Haven’t been in a while but hope it is still good.

Les Cocottes
135, Rue Saint-Dominique (7th ARR.)
https://lescocottes.paris/

Cocottes are cast-iron crocks that are baked in the oven. This is another restaurant by the famous Cristian Constant (of Cafe Constant).

Georgette
44 Rue d’Assas (6th ARR.)
https://www.restaurant-georgette.fr/

Bread & Roses
62, Rue Madame (6th ARR.)
https://www.breadandroses.fr/

My favorite spot for a girls’ lunch! Gorgeous breads, salads and more. Just outside Luxembourg Gardens. Check out some dishes in the Snapshots below.

Café des Musées
49, rue de Turenne (3rd ARR.)
https://www.lecafedesmusees.fr/

One of the best places for Beef Bourguignon… my husband’s favorite.

La Bourse et La Vie
12 Rue Vivienne
Terrific spot for steak-frites! Very small restaurant. Reservations recommended.

Camille
24 Rue des Francs Bourgeois (LE MARAIS)

Classic, cozy bistrot in the Marais. Lovely everything.

Café Méricourt
Rue de la Folie Méricourt 22 (11th ARR.)

Fantastic brunch spot. They might serve brunch all day.

Printemps du Goût
Printemps Haussmann (department store)
2 Rue du Havre, 8th floor

Mini restaurants side by side: one for seafood, one for cheese, one for beef, etc.

Galeries Lafayette Haussmann
40 Bd Haussmann
https://haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/restaurants/

Don’t miss the amazing restaurants at Galeries Lafayette; the most gourmet food court you’ll ever encounter.

Ô Chateau Wine Bar
68 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (2nd ARR.)
https://o-chateau.com/en/

One of the most extensive lists of wines by the glass; they teach wine pairing classes, etc.

FLOWERS

Lately, I’ve been buying flowers every time I’m in Paris. As luxuries go, it’s simple but it makes me feel the tiniest bit French. And it really livens up a hotel room or rented apartment. My current favorite shop is Chez Rose, 40 Rue Popincourt (11th ARR.).

CULTURAL EXCURSIONS

Marché des Enfants Rouges

39 Rue de Bretagne (3rd ARR.)
Paris’ oldest covered food/produce market. Don’t miss the Moroccan stall (for amazing tagines)!

Petit Palais

Avenue Winston Churchill
This is my favorite “cultural” spot to hang out (avoiding crowds at the Louvre, Musee D’Orsay, etc.). The center garden area is spectacular; relaxing with a citron presse while admiring the view is heavenly. There are also two floors of art–paintings, sculptures, and ceramics to fulfill your culture quotient.

Père-Lachaise Cemetery

Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde and Maria Callas are buried here. It’s fascinating to walk around and see the elaborately decorated crypts. Beware of tripping hazards as there are lots of cobblestones and uneven ground.

Catacombs of Paris

A mind-blowing series of tunnels underneath Paris containing thousands and thousands of bones (old cemeteries were dug up during the Haussmann makeover of Paris in the late 19th century and interred here).

Grande Mosquée de Paris

2bis Pl. du Puits de l’Ermite (6th ARR.)
https://www.grandemosqueedeparis.fr/

A lovely spot to enjoy a mint tea and people watch.

Pl. du Trocadéro

Best place to grab an iconic photo with the Eiffel Tower in the background (see below). Beware of pickpockets since everyone is focused on getting the perfect shot.

WHERE TO STAY

Kai’s Kitchen–Paris

Located in the hip 11th ARR. (walking distance to even more hip Le Marais). This is a tricked-out cook’s kitchen/dining room–designed by Kai himself–with an attached bedroom and tiny bathroom; the long table can seat up to 12 guests for dinner. Chef Kai hosts a pop-up restaurant there (email him for dates) and can also be hired to cook private dinners at the apartment.
https://kaiskitchen.info/

Image credit: Haven in Paris

Haven in Paris – Rosiers Apartment

In the Marais, near the Rue des Rosiers. This is a darling, light-filled, 2BR apartment lets you feel like a true Parisian.
https://havenin.com/rental/rosiers

Hôtel HoY

68 Rue des Martyrs (9th ARR.)
https://www.hoyparis.com/

One of my favorite compact hotels in Paris. Immaculately clean rooms, a yoga studio AND a flower shop in the lobby! Don’t be put off by the neighborhood (Pigalle); the metro stop is very close by.

Image credit: Hoxton Paris

The Hoxton, Paris

30-32 Rue du Sentier
https://thehoxton.com/paris/

I’ve heard the rooms are small but you can’t beat the lobby for coffee, pastries and just a beautiful light-filled space.

LE SHOPPING

CONCEPT STORES, ETC.

MERCI
111 Bd Beaumarchais (LE MARAIS)

Stylish concept store with clothing, elegant housewares, It-Girl bags, books and more.

EMPREINTES
5 Rue de Picardie (LE MARAIS)

Hand-painted ceramics, elegant housewares, jewelry.

E. DEHILLERIN
18-20 Rue Coquillière (2nd ARR.)

Copper cookware mecca in Paris (Julia Child and Chuck Williams of Williams-Sonoma were fans).

 

BREAD & SWEETS

Boulangerie Poilâne
8 Rue du Cherche-Midi (6th ARR.)
https://www.poilane.com/

THE mecca for levain-style bread. This is the baker (Lionel Poilâne) who started it all (now run by his daughter, Appollonia). Now with a few spots around the city, the original location on Rue du Cherche-Midi is still the best. Don’t miss the little crispy cookies they sell!

Méert Chocolatier
16 Rue Elzevir
https://www.meert.fr/

Started in 1761, this is a beautiful old chocolate shop.

Une Glace à Paris
15 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie
https://uneglaceaparis.fr/web/

Simply beautiful ice creams and cakes.

The French Bastards
61 Rue Oberkampf (11th ARR.)

The bread is great but you really want one of the bags they come in! Cool industrial space.

 

FOOD SOUVENIRS

La Grande Epicerie de Paris
38 Rue de Sèvres
https://www.lagrandeepicerie.com/fr/index

Probably the most luxurious food hall in Europe. Don’t miss the blueberry yogurt from Bordier. I am obsessed (see photo below).

Pierre Hermé
53-57 Rue de Grenelle
https://www.pierreherme.com/

Palais des Thés
64, rue Vieille du Temple
https://www.palaisdesthes.com/fr/

Mariage Frères
30 Rue du Bourg Tibourg
https://www.mariagefreres.com/

Mococha
89 rue Mouffetard
https://www.chocolatsmococha.com/

Caractère de Cochon
42 Rue Charlot (LE MARAIS)

The best cured meats in Le Marais. Get a sandwich to go!

SNAPSHOTS

EIFFEL TOWER AT NIGHT

View from the champagne bar atop the Montparnasse Tower; music: “Lounge” by bensound.com

Copyright 2026 Kathryn Besser