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Kathryn Besser

Where to Eat, Where to Stay

Rome

WHERE TO EAT

BUT FIRST, COFFEE…

Toma Café (Malasaña neighborhood)
Lovely coffee, lovely desserts
Calle de la Palma, 49, 28004 Madrid
https://www.toma.cafe/

La Bicicleta Café (Malasaña neighborhood)
Funky decor with lots of vintage bicycles and gear
Pl. de San Ildefonso, 9, 28004 Madrid
https://www.labicicletacafe.com/

CHURROS & CHOCOLATE

Chocolatería San Ginés
Since 1894, this 24-hour cafe offers delicious hot chocolate and churros (hours may vary with Covid)
Pasadizo de San Ginés, 5
https://chocolateriasangines.com/

TAPAS BARS NEAR METRO RIOS ROSES

Marga and Paco introduced me to this area when I visited in October 2019… I had 5 glasses of wine that night so cannot remember much about what we ate where but everything was magnificent!

DeAtún
Calle de Ponzano, 59
https://deatun.com/

Restaurante Candeli
Calle de Ponzano, 47
https://restaurantecandeli.com/

La Malcriada Ponzano
Calle de Ponzano, 38

Restaurante Casa Paulino
Calle de Alonso Cano, 34
https://casapaulinodealonsocano.com/

Restaurante Arima (Basque Gastronomy)
Calle de Ponzano, 51
https://www.arimabasquegastronomy.com/

OTHER GREAT DINING OPTIONS

Restaurante Casa Salvador
Old-school Spanish tavern with bullfighting theme
Calle de Barbieri, 12
https://casasalvadormadrid.com/

Mercado San Antón
3-level gourmet food hall with bars, mini restaurants and groceries
Calle de Augusto Figueroa, 24
https://mercadosananton.com/

TAPAS BARS NEAR PLAZA MAYOR

Ana la Santa
Plaza de Sta. Ana, 14
https://www.encompaniadelobos.com/ana-la-santa/

Bayres Beef Argentina en tapas
Calle de Pradillo, 6
http://www.bayresbeef.com/

Mesón del Champiñon
A bit kitschy and touristy but the mushrooms and padron peppers are excellent – enjoy chilled cava and watch the chefs at work
Cava de San Miguel, 17
https://mesondelchampinon.com/en/

Mercado de San Miguel
Absolutely beautiful old building to walk around, just off the Plaza Mayor but I think the food stalls are more for tourists; the tapas sit out a while and are overpriced
Plaza de San Miguel, s/n
https://mercadodesanmiguel.es/

WHERE TO STAY

Fifteen Keys Hotel

Interior designer Marga Casanova offers luxurious apartments in one of the best locations in central Madrid, just off historic Plaza del Sol. The pedestrian-friendly streets in the neighborhood are lined with cafes, tapas bars and boutiques. Click images below to learn more.

GOYA SUITE

PICASSO SUITE

VELAZQUEZ SUITE

TRAVEL JOURNAL

Copyright 2026 Kathryn Besser